Being Enchanted by Brazil’s Best-Preserved Colonial Town of Ouro Prêto

No matter where you look in Ouro Prêto, you'll always see at least one church (©Coen Wubbels)

Around 1700 gold was discovered in the state of Minas Gerais. In 1711 Vila Rica de Ouro Prêto (Rich City of Black Gold) was founded, which soon became the capital of the state and epicenter of Brazil's biggest gold rush. Thousands of slaves dug out … [Read more...]

Cheering on Soccer Players in Rio de Janeiro’s Maracanã Stadium, Brazil

Cheering on a Soccer Game in Maracanã Stadium, Rio de Janeiro (©photocoen)

"You can't leave Rio de Janeiro without having seen the Maracanã Stadium!" "The what?” I couldn't even pronounce the word. "The Maracanã Stadium! You don't know what it is?" "Sorry, never heard of it." "No, that's impossible. Everybody knows … [Read more...]

Marveling from the Sugarloaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View of Sugar Loaf from Cristo Redentor Statue (©Coen Wubbels)

Thus far thick traffic and having to watch my back had made me wary of the city but after a leisurely walk up the Sugar Loaf, I took in the view and suddenly understood the spell that visitors as well as Cariocas – Rio de Janeiro's residents – … [Read more...]

Listening to Stories of the Dead in Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires (©photocoen)

City of Angels, City of the Dead, or City of Cats: These names all refer to the Recoleta necropolis in Buenos Aires. With 5000 sepulchers this eternal resting place is a rich synthesis of history, art, religion and death, and serves as a tribute to … [Read more...]

Exploring the Jesuit Estancias in Córdoba, Argentina

The estancia of Jesús María stands out for its wrought iron fence and gratings (©Coen Wubbels)

When in the 16th century the Jesuits came to Argentina, they founded schools and universities in Córdoba, an area today referred to as the Jesuit Block. In order to finance these institutions estancias were set up in the surrounding areas, where … [Read more...]

Absorbing the Story of Slavery and Cachaça in Redenção, Brazil

Drawing of Slaves on a Wall in the Slave Quarters (©Coen Wubbels)

In 1873 Colonel Simião Jurumenha bought a sugarcane farm and built the cachaça factory of Douradinho, some 80 kilometers south of Fortaleza in northeast Brazil. Ten years later slavery was abolished here, five years before the rest of Brazil. 130 … [Read more...]

Taking a Break at Biocentro Güembé in Santa Cruz, Bolivia

Macaws rescued from illegal trafficking in Bolivia (©Coen Wubbels)

"Another Inca ruin?" "Again so many hours in a bus?" "Can't we go swimming somewhere?" "More markets? I want to go swimming! Please!" I don't have kids but I can imagine this being a frequent scene between kids and parents on vacation (or … [Read more...]

Whale Watching on Península Valdés in Argentina

A Southern Right Whale passes right along the shore (©Coen Wubbels)

"Look at that! Am I seeing what I am seeing? A white baby whale?!" It was swimming right along its dark-grayish mother in the Golfo Nuevo, a protected bay along the Atlantic Ocean of the Argentinean coast. "It's an albino whale. Quite … [Read more...]

Strolling Around Iguazu Falls in Argentina

This is the most treacherous waterfall of all (©Coen Wubbels)

The 275 waterfalls that make up Iguazu Falls lie on the Argentinean-Brazilian border and I already saw them in Brazil. Yet, I wanted to see this UNESCO World Heritage Site from the Argentinean side as well, even though I wasn't sure this side would … [Read more...]

Touring the Jesuit Missions in La Gran Chiquitania of East Bolivia

The decorated walls and carved pillars characterize Bolivia's Jesuit Missions (©Coen Wubbels)

150 kilometers of unpaved road meander through thick forest and cattle ranches in eastern Bolivia. The road takes me to my third Jesuit Mission: Santa Ana. It's the smallest of the six missions that make up the UNESCO World Heritage Site of La Gran … [Read more...]