Watching Hummingbirds at the Mashpi Lodge in Ecuador

Violet Tail Sylph (©photocoen)

Violet Tail Sylph (©photocoen)

Purple-Crowned Fairies, Green-Crowned Wood Nymphs and Violet-Tailed Sylphs were fluttering all around me. Had I just landed in an elf forest? It most certainly felt like it. Surrounded by a towering wilderness of forested mountains with grey clouds closing in or receding just as suddenly, the area felt mystical enough to be one.

Hummingbirds with velvet, violet, green or otherwise iridescent feathers were in a frenzy: they shot right by us or hovered right in front of us a hand’s breadth away beat their wings around 100 times per second and pausing only very briefly on a shoulder or hat so that the camera was never fast enough.

Sometimes I'm lucky and take a nice picture as well (©Karin-Marijke Vis)

Sometimes I’m lucky and take a nice picture as well (©Karin-Marijke Vis)

The birds had a simple message: We’re hungry!

Luckily our guides knew how to satisfy the demands of these aerial acrobats and filled transparent containers with sugar water. All of a sudden we were no longer the focus of their attention, but the feeders with yellow plastic flowers were.

In Your Bucket Because…

  • You want to see the endemic hummingbirds of the Mashpi Reserve.
  • You have often seen hummingbirds but never had the chance to photograph them. Here you will.
  • You are staying at the luxurious Mashpi Lodge in the Choco Forest just north of Quito, where watching hummingbirds is one of the many outdoor activities they have on offer.
  • Good for: anybody with an interest in hummingbirds, nature aficionados in general, and bird photographers.

The Ethics of Using Feeders

Hummingbirds need a lot of sugar because of their metabolism (imagine having to flap wings 70-200 times per second, depending on the activity). In nature, the nectar from flowers provides them with this sugar. Not finding any nectar for half an hour may be enough for a hummingbird to drop dead. Interestingly, they have a system that slows down their metabolism for twelve hours at night and, according to our naturalist guide David, the hummingbird is the only bird species to do so.

Empress Brilliant (©photocoen)

Empress Brilliant (©photocoen)

The hummingbird observatory is a well set-up spot within the Masphi Reserve, which my partner Coen and I were visiting with guides from the Mashpi Eco Lodge. I talked about the ethical use of feeders with David and José (the second, local guide). Is feeding them sugar water harmful to the birds? Does it spoil them so they will no longer search for flowers? Is sugar an adequate substitute for nectar?

“This discussion comes up constantly,” David said, “and not without reason, because the jury – among whom scientists – is still out on the subject.” José told us the birds specifically need nectar to reproduce and stop doing so when feeding only on sugar water. The second issue is that when hummingbirds are fed through feeders too much they don’t pollinate flowers and so a second problem arrises: the disappearance of flowers.

Apparently this is happening in some areas in Ecuador where hummingbirds are fed on a large scale and flowering plants are only marginally present due to cultivation or urban development, which is obviously a situation different from the one here in the middle of nature.

Velvet Purple Coronet (©photocoen)

Velvet Purple Coronet (©photocoen)

David continued, “In my opinion we are doing a good thing here because, unfortunately, mankind is destroying the environment of the birds including their flowers. Only ten percent of the Choco Forest remains, in which the Masphi Reserve and Lodge are situated. If we don’t do this, we will lose the birds.” He also said that they notice that few hummingbirds come to the feeders when many flowers in the forest are blooming, which was about three to four months ago.

Rare and endemic Hummingbirds, and Other Animal Life

José and David are forever on the lookout for animals around them, always having their binoculars and a field telescope at hand. Here it was no different and they called us over when spotting birds such as the Blue and Black Tangara and Toucan Barbet. One coati climbed up a feeder made of cut open bamboo which held a couple of peeled plantains, gorged itself on a chunk of the fruit and disappeared in the forest again.

José and I flipped through his bird book, which features some 130 different hummingbirds. The guides of the Masphi Ecolodge know of some thirty species that live within the Masphi Reserve, of which about a dozen can be seen every day at this hummingbird viewpoint.

Crimsom Rumped Toucanet (©photocoen)

Crimsom Rumped Toucanet (©photocoen)

At close quarters we admired the rare Booted Racked-Tailed hummingbird, and the endemic Velvet-Purple Coronet and Brown Inca. Some were easy to distinguish such as the Empress Brilliant, which has the longest bill of all species I saw here, or the incredible Violet-tailed Sylph, which with its long tail became one of my favorites.

Before we went on this trip/tour I had at times wondered how we could be spending a whole morning watching hummingbirds. However, we became so entranced that we skipped a hike to a waterfall and returned to the hummingbird observatory to watch the spectacle for a second time.

Booted Racket Tail (©photocoen)

Booted Racket Tail (©photocoen)


  • The bird book used by the guides: Aves del Ecuador; Guia de Campo by Robert S. Ridgely and Paul J. Freenfield.
  • The Masphi Ecolodge lies in the Mashpi Reserve, a three-hour drive from Quito, Ecuador’s capital. It is one of Ecuador’s most luxurious, eco-friendly accommodations and the lodge provides transport from and to Quito.
  • Among the lodge’s other activities are watching butterflies, hiking trails, swimming in a waterfall, cycling among tree tops on an aerial bike, watching the sunset from a 30-meter-high watchtower, going for nocturnal walks, and enjoying the lodge’s wellness treatments. In the near future a two-mile long canopy gondola will be opened. For more information, check out the Masphi Lodge’s Website.

Photos by Coen Wubbels

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